hughes



R. R. HUGHES, JR.

FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 1. 1914.

l 1 9%,023 Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

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FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 1, 1914.

1,194,023. Patented Aug. 8,1916:

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ROBERT R. HUGHES, JR.,-OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A SSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIALMACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

FOLDER FOR S EWING-MACHINES.

Specification of Iietters Batent.

. Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

Application filed J'u1y'1,-19 14. Serial No. 848,398

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, ROBERT HUGHES,

J r., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in thecounty of New York, State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Folders for Sewing-Machines, of which thefollowing is a. description, reference being had to the accompanying,drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon. My inventionrelates to new and useful improvements in folders for sewing machines,and more particularly to a folder for forming the front plait "of ashirt or other garment.

An object of the invention is to provide a folder wherein a lining stripmay be uti lized in forming the plait, which lining strip is so guidedthat one edge thereof is encircled by a folded edge of the garment,while the other edge of said lining strip is folded and stitched to thegarment.

A further object of the invention is to provide a folder of the abovecharacter which may be, readily adjusted for lining strips of differentwidths.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a folder of theabove character, with means for directing and guiding the lining stripto the folder.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a guiding devicewhich may be used to guide a strip in the garment, so that the same maybe placed centrally of the formed plait.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part behereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a plan view of a folder embodying myimprovements; Fig. 2 is an end view of the same; Fig. 3 is alongitudinal sectional view on the line 33 of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is atransverse sectional view on the line 4-4: of Fig. 1; Fig. 5 is asectional view on the line 55 of Fig. 1; Fig. 6 is a detail showing theend of the guiding plates at the side wherein the lining strip isencircled by the body" fabric; Fig. 7 is a sectional view showing alining strip attached to a fabric; Fig. 8 is a plan view showing aslightly modified form of the folder; Fig. 9 is an end view thereof;Fig, 10 is a sectional view on the line 10l0 of Fig. 8; Fig. 11 is asectional line on the line l1-11 of Fig. 8; Fig. 12 is a front end viewof a portion of the folder; Fig. 13 is a side view showing the guide forthe lining strip. i

The folder consists generally in guiding plates which are placed oneabove the other, so that a lining-strip for a plait may be guldedbetween said plates. At one. side of these. plates a scroll is formed,which operates to fold the edge of the lining strip on to the uppersurface thereof At the other edge of said guiding plates, there is ascroll which extends from the under side to the upper face of saidplates, so that the body fabric may be guided through the folder abovesaid plates with its edge extending into said scroll, and this scrollwill fold the edge of the body garment and cause the same to encirclethe other free edge of the lining strip. These guiding plates are madein sections so they may be adjusted toward or from each other forvarying the size of the plait which is formed.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved folder .as shownin Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, consists of a lower guiding plate 1 and anupper guiding plate 2. These plates are joined together at their sideedges, so as to form a guiding recess 3 between the plates. The upperand lower plates 1 and 2 at one side of the folder, are gradually turnedinto a scroll 4, which exwhen a strip is guided between the upper andlower plates. the edge of the strip willbe carried around in the recess5 formed by the scroll, and turn the edge of the strip on to its upperface, as it is delivered from the folder. The other side edges of theplates 1 and 2 are also connected at the receiving end of the folder,but at the delivery end of the folder these edges are cut away asindicated at 6, (see Fig. 6), so as to permit the lining strip indicatedat L in said figure, to extend laterally between the plates.

The plates 1 and 2 are made in sections, and the lower sections overlap.The upper face of the underlying sections is cut away tends over on tothe-upper plate, so that sleeve, and this assists in supporting theplates and holding the same in alinement, so as to form a proper guidingrecess 3 for the lining strip which passes between the upper and lowerplates.

A base plate is secured to one side of the plates 1 and 2, and supportsthe sections thereof on this side of the folder. An inde pendent scroll11 is secured to the under plate 1 at the other side thereof; and thisscroll extends outwardly as at 12; thence upwardly and inwardly as at13, so as to overlie the upper plate. This scroll is also secured to asupporting base plate 14. The

base'plates 10 and 14 are slotted as at 15, so they may be adjustablyattached to the work plate ofa sewing machine.

The lining strip indicated at L is guided between the upper plate 2 andthe lower plate 1. The edge 1 of the lining strip is carried around intothe recess 5, and is folded over on to the upper face of the liningstrip as it is delivered from the folder. The body garment indicated atF extends over the top of the folder, and its edge is carried around bythe scroll 11 to the under side of the plate- 1. This scroll is alsopreferably so shaped as to fold in the rear edge. of the fabric, asindicated at f. The lining strip extends to the cut-away section 6 ofthe guiding plates 1 and 2, and, therefore, this raw edge of the liningstrip will be encircled by the hem or fold formed-in the body fabric Fby the scroll-11.

The folder is preferably used in connection with a two-needle machine,wherein the needles are so set as to form a line of stitches S whichpass through the body garment,

the edge of the lining strip and the folded edge of the body garmentunderneath the lining strip, while a second line'of stitching S extendsthrough the body garment and the folded-in opposite edge of the liningstrip (see Fig. 7).

When it is desired to form a wider plait, the needles are properlyadjusted and the folder is also adjusted so as to separate the sectionsof the plates 1 and 2. This is the only adjustment necessary. By thisadjustment of the folder, a wider lining strip maybe guided to thefolder and stitched in precisely the same manner as above described.

In Figs. 8 to 13. of the drawings, I have shown a slightly modified formof folder. This folder is also provided with upper and lower guidingplates 16 and 17. These plates are joined at one edge and bent around toform a scroll 18. The plates are spaced to .form a guiding recess 19,and this guiding recess extends around into'the guiding recess of thescroll 18, so that as a lining strip passes between the plates, its edgewill be folded as described in connection with the other figures of thedrawings.

base plates 29 and 28.

at the delivery end as indicated at 20, and a scroll 21 secured to thelower plate extends upwardly and over the upper plate, in the mannerabove described. The edges of the plates 16 and. 17 at the receiving endof the scroll 21 are provided with an enlargement 22, which serves torestrict and properly form a guiding recess 23, which directs the. edgeof the body garment which is to be folded.

The sections of the lower plate 17 are preferably arranged so as to bein alinement. The sections of the upper plate 16 are arranged so as tooverlap, asshown in Fig. 10.

The operation of this folder is precisely the same as described inconnection with Fig. 1.- One section of the lower plate is extended.toward the front of the machine, and also laterally} so as to form areceiving guide 24,

for the lining strip. This receiving guide is bent, so as to extendsubstantially at right angles to the-longitudinal axis of the folder, asindicated at 5.

Coiiperating ith the feeding-in portion 25 of the guide 1s an adjustableguiding loop. 26. This guiding loop is slotted and secured by screws 27to the base plate 28 which supports one-half of the folder. The otherhalf of the folder is supported by a base plate 29. The edge of theextension 25 is is a stripe guide 31. This stripe guide is secured tothe base plate 29 by screws 32, so that it may be adjusted transverselyof the folder. The end 33 of the stripe guide indicates the centralposition of the formed plait, so that when the garment has a stripelongitudinally thereof, this stripe may be guided by the stripe guide,so as tobe placed centrally'of the formed plait.

As above noted, the plate 16 is made in overlapping sections, onesection being carried by the base plate 29 and the other by the baseplate 28. .The sections of the plate 17 are likewise carriedrespectively by the Therefore, by adjusting the base plates, the foldermay be adjusted for different sized 'plaits. It is understood, ofcourse, that in Figs-9 and- 15), the folders are set for a minimum sizeP t- It is obvious minor changes in the details of construction andarrangement of parts may be made Without departing from the ing underthe edge of a fabric passed over said plates.

'2. A folder for sewing machines including spaced guiding plates, saidguiding plates at one side terminating in a folding scroll for foldingover on to its upper face the edge of a lining strip guided between theplates, and a folding scroll attached to the lower plate underneath thesame and extending outwardly, upwardly and inwardly about the other sideedges of said plates, whereby a body fabric may be guided over saidplates and its edge directed into said scroll for forming a fold in theedge of the body garment which surrounds the raw edge of the liningstrip.

l 3. A folder for sewing machines including spaced guiding plates, eachof which is formed in sections, a supportingbase plate for the sectionsat each side of said plates,

said plates terminating at one side thereof in a folding scroll forfolding a lining strip, and a folding scroll surrounding the other sideedges of said plates for receiving a body garment guided over saidfolding plates and folding the edge thereof around the other edge of thelining strip.

4. A folder for sewing machines including spa'ced upper and lower guidinplates formed in sections, said lower guiding plate at one side thereofbeing gradually turned over on to the upper face of the upper plate, soas to fold the edge of a strip guided between the said plates on to theupper face of said strip, and an independent scroll at the other edgesof said plates for receiving a body garment and folding the edge thereofunderneath the other edge of said strip.

5. A folder for sewing machines including spaced guiding plates, saidguiding plates at one side thereof terminating in a folding scroll forfolding over on to its upper face the edge of a lining strip guidedbetween said plates, a folding scroll at the other side of said platesfor receiving the edge of the body fabric guided over said platesv andfolding the edge thereof underneath said plates,

said lower plate having an extension bent at an angle, so as to direct alining strip into the folder.

6. A folder for sewing machines including spaced guiding plates, saidguiding plates at one side thereof terminating in a folding scroll forfolding over on to its upper face the edge of a lining strip guidedbetween said plates,- a folding scroll at the other side of said platesfor receiving the edge of the body fabric. guided over said plates andfolding the edge thereof underneath said plates, and a stripe guideattached to said folder and extending over the same, whereby a stripemay be located centrally of .a formed )lait.

l 7. A folder for sewing machines including spaced guiding plates, saidguiding plates at one side thereof terminating in a folding scroll forfolding over onto its upper face the edge of a lining strip guidedbetween said plates, and a folding scroll extending about the other sideedges of said plates for folding under the edge of the fabric pass ngover said plates, said guiding plates being formed in sections wherebysaid sections may be adjusted relative to each other for varying thesize of said folder.

In testimony whereof, I affix my slgnature, in the presence of twoWitnesses.

ROBERT R. HUGHES, JR.

